China

Li Village Diary
December 2, 2001

My friend, Jin Li and I visited the Li minority village called "number seven team of Bao Gu Village." It is approximately 20 kilometers from Sanya City, in the Hainan Province.

Our journey began on a crowded dirty bus filled with locals. I enjoy mingling. An elder woman steps onboard with a heavy burlap sack crumbling apart from the weight. A mother and child sit opposite me. The baby stares because I look different. Actually, they all stare, but in your heart you know it's positive curiousity. We exchange smiles. Outside the window, the fields are green, the sky is bright blue and the ocean is calm. Farmers are working their fields of rice, sugar and vegetables, with water buffalo pushing handmade farm equipment. We pass weathered wooden shacks, which house large families. As I stare out the window I reflect on how these people from this overpopulated country live with so little, but their warmth is immense and fills me with compassion. After 25 minutes, we exit the bus at an intersection in the middle of nowhere. Jin Li tells me to wait. A motorcycle taxi pulls up within a matter of seconds. Making a deal is always an ordeal. We hop on and begin our ride up a dirt road. On either side we pass beautiful vistas of farmland. We travel through an old village and I ask to stop. Jin Li says, "on the way back." We continue, creeping up hills and bouncing on pot holes. We hit a large rock and my water is thrown from my bag to the ground, watching it disappear like a lost friend. Four kids in uniform emerge from the bushes, probably heading home from school for lunch and a nap. I smile, imagining their surprise when they pick up my water in an American bottle. I realize just how far away I am, a place that rarely sees foreigners. Who would know to come here?

All the bouncing and dust is turning my stomach, wondering how much longer. But it continues for 45 more minutes. Finally the motorcycle stops, we've arrived. Scanning the surroundings, we're still in the middle of nowhere. Jin Li motions to follow her up a hill. We cross a deep dry creek, with small wooden shacks perched on its edge. Wild pigs pass us, roaming free. Three dogs of a nameless breed ignore us. Then a lively loud rustling sound is heard from the tall bushes to my left, where nothing is seen but only imagined. I scurry past, a little frightened of the unknown in this foreign land. We walk around a curve and signs of life begin to appear. An old woman sitting, rather sleeping soundly on the edge of a three legged chair. Suddenly, we are spotted, our presence is now known. The town one by one begins to appear. We find ourselves in the center of a commotion, consumed by the locals. Kids follow closely making giggly noises. An older woman warmly greets Jin Li and invites us to lunch. I am starving, but Jin Li says "no thank you, we can't stay long." I think to myself, "darn! I wanted to enjoy a meal with them." But later Jin Li told me we could get sick, it wouldn't be clean. I brought out my digital camera and the villagers crowded around with childlike excitement. They've never seen instant photos before. My trusty digital has broken the ice on many occasions throughout China. I snapped away at the kids, older women working and families sitting. The men were more shy and few to be seen, it was daytime, they must be out working the fields.

This village is small, consisting of approximately 500 people. Large families live in one room. They enjoy the outdoors, with their time spent preparing food, eating and working. Meals are cooked outside, animals are killed for eating and healthy dark green patches of vegetable gardens surround the village. The elders work as hard as the young. Animals roam free, and the kids seem content. Some children carry school books and they all attend a local school. The Li believe education is an important step in bettering their lives and the future of their nationality. College is a hardship for minorities since they cannot afford the tuition and most of them do not speak English. Children have many responsiblities at an early age. Girls take care of the younger members in the village, and it is common to see a baby carried on the back of a child who is doing chores.

There is no running water or electricity. This means no radios or TV, with little communication from the outside world. I was a rare sight for these people to see, but they greeted me with unexpected warmth and hospitality. I am a stranger, but since I was brought in with a friend, I am an instant family member. I sensed an unspoken feeling of protection surrounding these people. They are self sufficient, knowing how to work their land and feed themselves. As we were leaving, my thoughts turned to this minute slice of history I shared with this primitive culture that will surely die out one day. I have so many "things;" they have so much innocence.

Most of the Chinese minorities inhabit the country's western side and are considered the poorest people. They have lower levels of industrialism, education and standard of living. The government has given aid / contributions to many minority groups for their development and education. But land is scarce and the need to find other sources of income is a burden without the aid of the government or outside assistance. The need for opportunities increase with needed better employment, along with the resources to start their own business.

Approx 16% of the Chinese people belong to a minority group. There are vast cultural differences amongst them, such as language barriers, religious observances and practices, educational facilities and income needs. In past history, the relations between the Han majority and minorites led to bloody battles. It is different today. The future for these people will only thrive if the people feel more unified. Government policies need to change and world leaders need to work together to improve relations and bring in resources to educate and industrialize a country of people who have been held back for many many years.

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